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Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

Idler Gear - Setting End Float

A fairly crucial part of how the idler gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. part numbers: 22A1545, 22A1546, 22A1547, 22A1548, 22A1549, DAM4822, DAM4823, DAM4824, DAM4825, GUG705563GM, AAU8424, ADU6033, CCN110, 2A3643, 22A152, 53K547, Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed. Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever shims and thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The idler gear was no exception. Too tight a clearance and the idler gear will either seize solid when it gets hot, or destroy the thrust washer thrust faces in the comparably soft aluminium gearbox and t

Suspension - King Pin Offset

Adverse Effects of Fitting Wide Wheels part numbers: C-AJJ3359 Terminology used: KPI - King Pin Inclination KPO - King Pin Offset LSD - Limited Slip Differential In the 'Suspension - Terminology' section, I covered what KPI is, as it is an ancient but still oft-used term despite being pretty redundant. Not that it isn't attendant in current cars - it has to be. It's just that the mass car manufacturers have settled the angle at which it is set down to a fairly universally used envelope, and there's nothing the individual can do to alter it without entirely re-fabricating the hubs of drastic surgery on the existing ones. So is, to all intents and purposes, fixed. Even the most technically advanced race teams can do little more than keep a wary eye on what it is doing when playing with suspension set-up.

CHANGING FROM DYNAMO TO ALTERNATOR

Completing this change successfully, easily and neatly is pretty straightforward on a Mini. The alternator contains the regulator and cut out functions within it’s casing, so makes the regulator box used with a dynamo redundant.

Part No Applications: GEU205, GEU205MS, GEU207, GXE2297
However, it is useful to retain the box itself and it’s connectors. It acts as a terminal box to make the installation neat, avoiding the messy and awkward soldering/taping together bunches of wires. It also maintains a period look, plus makes reversal easy should this be needed in the future.

Disconnect the battery and remove the black regulator box from the car - taking care to make a note of or label each wire removed with it’s original terminal connection. Fit the alternator using the necessary rear support bracket (part no. 12G1053) as the alter

Cooling - Controlling water temperature

The introduction of the Cooper S proved to be a testing time for the Mini’s systems, but conveniently provide a guideline as to what the standard cooling system was capable of - that used on the ‘S’ was marginal to say the least!

It wasn’t uncommon for many S’s to spew water from their overflow pipes when ever it was doing anything other than a steady 70 miles an hour, over-heating eventually caused through water loss. Perhaps some deductions can be made from the following…

There are a number of elements involved in controlling water temperature. Some confusion over what to sort first when over-heating occurs leads to wasted time and money, and possibly terminal engine damage. Maximum power is usually generated from A-series engines at 70 – 75 degrees C (160 to 170 degrees F). The main problem with this on a road car is the oil’s unlikely to get hot enough for maximum performance – the results outlined previously.

Engine transplants - Ancillary parts

Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap.

Terminology -
BBU - Big Bore Unit
SBU - Small Bore Unit

NOTE: This information covers transplanting large-bore engine units into small-bore engined Minis. For further information for exact differences between pre-A+ and A+ units, see relevant separate article.

Engine mountings and steady bars.
Engine mountings are a whizz to fit as the Mini ones fit straight onto any of the other units. Just remove the Metro/AA/1300GT ones and swop the mounts over from the Mini unit. If they’re split, fit new ones, they’re cheap. If using the AA/1300GT unit - it's advisable to cut off the 'wings' on the front plate that carried the engine mounts on the radiator end.

Primary Gear - Setting end float

A fairly crucial part of how the primary gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed.

Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The primary gear was no exception. Too much end float and clutch disengagement is adversely affected, the gear floating up and down the crankshaft in unison with the clutch plate. The result is a graunching gear change since the plate isn't clearing the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces fully. Too little end float and the gear is likely to be pinched tight as it

General fitting instructions

To ensure correct installation of the AP Braking remote vacuum servo unit, thoroughly read and adhere to the fitting instructions prior to carrying out any work on the vehicle. Introduction The vacuum servo unit is incorporated into the hydraulic braking system, remote from the master cylinder, as an intermediate stage operating between the master cylinder and the brake assemblies. The two main parts of the servo unit consist of the vacuum servo mechanism and the hydraulic slave cylinder assembly.

These component parts are bolted together so that the slave cylinder piston is in line with, and is operated by, the servo push rod. A plastic no-return valve is fitted into the vacuum shell and an integral air cleaner is incorporated to prevent foreign matter entering the air control valve chamber. The servo unit is designed to give no assistance with very light brake application. In the absence of servo assistance due to loss of vacuum, an unres...

It was time to strip both front brake calipers completely and re-seal them to stop the irritating leaks. So that's exactly what I did using the new sets of seals I bought from KAD instead of the standard AP Lockheed seals. The AP ones look fine, but obviously something is causing them to relax or deteriorate in race use. With the calipers re-built and re-fitted I bled the system up with my Gunsons Easi-Bleed one-man brake bleeding kit.

It seemed pointless fitting new pads in for one race as I had plans to up-grade the brakes over the winter which would include a new set of a different type. I then decided to try and track down where the damned oil was coming from that was on the inner wing and under the clutch....

Following the Brands Hatch race, all was well with the car. Just as well – I was playing catch-up with grinding heads after my nice new grinder tool holder fell apart, and it took the makers 4 weeks to get it back to me. That and magazine work and an emergency engine build for a customer. I made enough time to give me a full morning on the car before having to load it up. Nothing bad came to light. As the race was the last day of a 4 day 'jolly'....

Having built one Cooper ‘S’ for Timo Makinen to use in Historic Rallying, in which he won two International Rallies, I decided to build another one with more power and less weight than the previous one.

One lesson I learnt the hard way building the first car, was that a reliable source of new parts with in-built quality, especially where obsolete parts were being remanufactured, was essential. Mini Spares of London...

A strange choice, you might think, for inclusion in Mini Tech News but, surprisingly the GTM has more Mini parts on it than the Elf! (because the Elf is nearly all space frame).

EFl - THE CONTINUING SAGA It is some time since I reported on the electronic fuel injection and ignition system I have been developing for Mini Spares. Unfortunately I suffered a very stagnant period of too many months whilst a great deal of time was wasted by what I can only describe as the "holier than thou's" in the automotive electronics world. What a bunch of self-opinionated *ssh*l*s!! Far too many empty promises.

Identical Twins Mini Spares need no introduction. For Mini nuts it's a Mecca for spares and tuning and even the non-converted can't have missed the company's involvement in the Minis comeback in the Monte Carlo Rally.

Cooper Body Shell The Heritage specialists fit a shell at the Classic Car show at the N.E.C. Only the latest type production bodyshells are available from Rover, who in their infinite wisdom have reduced the price from £1 ,700 to £950, which may help keep a few more cars on the road.

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